Curator’s statement
Hvar ended up being one of my favorite stops in Croatia, but not for the reason you might expect. While Hvar Town is known for its nightlife and beach clubs, we stayed on the quieter side of the island near Stari Grad and got to experience a completely different version of Hvar. Our days were spent swimming in hidden coves, exploring the island by ATV, eating incredibly simple seafood and spending plenty of time by the water. You can still easily visit Hvar Town, but I loved having somewhere peaceful to come back to at the end of the day.
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Where to stay on Hvar Island
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Things to do on Hvar Island
One of the many gorgeous, off-the-beaten-path beaches we discovered by ATV
Rent ATVs & explore the island
This was hands-down my favorite thing we did on Hvar. Rent ATVs for the day and head away from the main towns to explore the island’s smaller roads and beaches. Some of our favorite stops were places we found completely by accident, including little beaches filled mostly with locals and quiet coves where we could stop and swim.
Some rental companies will let you keep the ATV for a full 24 hours, which gives you even more flexibility. My biggest advice is to plan to be back at your hotel before it gets dark. The roads around Hvar are narrow, winding, and not well lit in places, and driving them at night is much more intimidating than during the day.
Spend a day on the water
You really cannot visit Hvar without seeing the island from the water. If you are staying near Stari Grad, book a full-day private boat and spend the day exploring secluded beaches and coves around the island.
If you don’t want to dedicate an entire day to boating, you can also head to Hvar Town and book a half-day trip. The Pakleni Islands sit just offshore and are perfect for swimming, snorkeling, and stopping somewhere along the water for lunch.
Explore Stari Grad
Stari Grad is worth exploring on its own. Wander through the narrow stone streets, walk along the waterfront, and stop for dinner outside. It is one of the oldest towns in Europe and has a much more relaxed, local feel than Hvar Town.
Spend an afternoon in Hvar Town
Even if you choose to stay on the quieter side of the island, Hvar Town is absolutely worth visiting. Walk around the harbor and old town, browse the shops, and stay for dinner or drinks. If you want nightlife, this is where you will find it, but you don’t need to stay here to enjoy it.
Leave some time to relax
Hvar is one of those destinations where you do not need to fill every day with activities. Spend an afternoon at the beach, swim in the Adriatic, and have a long lunch. If you are staying at Maslina, make sure you leave enough time to actually enjoy the resort.
Places to eat & drink on Hvar Island
Antika
One of my favorite meals in Stari Grad. Ask to sit outside along the little stone street. The setting is exactly what you picture when you think of a summer night on a Croatian island.
Blue Doors
Another great spot in Stari Grad for dinner. Grab a table outside and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere of the old town.
Jurin Podrum
A cozy, traditional restaurant in Stari Grad. Get the fish with olive oil. It is so simple and so delicious.
Lunch during your boat day
Ask your skipper where they recommend stopping for lunch. Some of the best days in Croatia involve pulling up to a small waterfront restaurant, ordering whatever fish is fresh that day, and staying longer than you planned.
Need to know
Bring water shoes: Most of Hvar’s beaches are rocky or pebbly rather than sandy, and water shoes make getting in and out of the water so much more enjoyable. If you forget them, you can easily buy a pair once you arrive.
Know which ferry to book: The majority of passenger ferries arrive in Hvar Town. If you are staying near Stari Grad, there is also a car ferry that arrives directly into Stari Grad, and you can book it as a passenger even if you aren’t traveling with a car. This can make for a much easier arrival if you’re staying on this side of the island.
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