Rome, Always: A Family Guide to the Eternal City

Get lost in Rome

The best way to experience Rome is without a strict agenda. Pick a direction, start walking, and let the city surprise you. Some of the best moments happen when you turn down a street you weren’t planning to and find a piazza, a fountain, or a church that stops you in your tracks. Build at least one morning or afternoon into the trip with nothing planned at all.

Golf cart sightseeing tour

This was one of the best decisions we made in Rome, and I’d recommend it to any family traveling with a mix of ages. We had a 2-year-old and a 70-year-old in our group, and the golf cart tour worked perfectly for everyone: comfortable, fun, and a wonderful way to cover the city’s highlights without the physical demands of walking everything. The tour lasted three hours and gave us a great overview before diving deeper into specific sites on foot.

The Sistine Chapel and the Vatican

Non-negotiable. The scale of the Vatican Museums, the history, and the Sistine Chapel itself are all more powerful in person than any photograph or description can prepare you for. Book tickets well in advance and consider a guided visit to get the most out of the experience. Reach out to me to arrange this.

The Colosseum

Another non-negotiable, and another one that hits differently in person. Standing inside it and understanding the scale of what the Romans built is genuinely humbling. Again, book in advance and skip the lines with a guided entry. Reach out to me to arrange this.

Tour of Villa D’Este, Tivoli

About 30 minutes from Rome, Villa D’Este is a Renaissance villa with some of the most extraordinary gardens and fountains in the world. My daughter was two years old and spent the whole visit running through the gardens, which tells you something about how magical the space is. A note for families: there are many stairs throughout, so keep that in mind if you’re worth-it traveling with very young children or anyone with mobility considerations. An absolutely worth it day trip. Reach out to me to arrange this.

Explore Trastevere

Rome’s most atmospheric neighborhood, on the other side of the Tiber. Cobblestone streets, ivy-covered buildings, trattorias spilling onto the pavement, and a local energy that the historic center can’t always match. Go in the evening when the neighborhood comes alive and plan dinner there.

Il Vero Alfredo

A Roman classic and the birthplace of fettuccine Alfredo. This is where the dish was invented, and coming here to try it in its original form is a pilgrimage worth making. Order the fettuccine Alfredo, nothing else matters on the first visit.

Ristorante Il Falchetto

The pasta and steak here were absolutely incredible, and the staff made the whole experience even better. Friendly, attentive service and food that delivers at every course. One of those restaurants you leave already wanting to go back to.

Luciano Cucina Italiana

Two things are non-negotiable here: the carbonara and the tiramisu. The carbonara is one of the best I’ve had in Rome, which is saying something in a city where everyone makes it. Don’t skip the tiramisu no matter how full you are.

Da Etta (Trastevere)

In a neighborhood full of good restaurants, Da Etta stands out. The smoky buffalo mozzarella is extraordinary and worth ordering the moment you sit down. The pasta dishes are equally divine, and the wine list is long and genuinely interesting. A perfect dinner in Trastevere.

La Soffitta Renovatio

Close to the Vatican, which makes it the perfect stop before or after visiting the Sistine Chapel. The service is excellent, most of the menu is gluten-free and genuinely delicious, and the pizza Capricciosa is the one to order. A reliable, welcoming option in an area where good restaurants can be hard to find.