Curator’s statement
Florence is my favorite city in Italy and reminds me of all the things I love most about my home city of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania—it’s small enough to see in just a few days on foot, full of historic monuments and moments that set the foundation for the rest of the country, and home to an amazing food scene. The city’s magic can be felt in all corners, but perhaps most strongly while overlooking the Arno River and the Ponte Vecchio at sunset with a gelato in hand. As the city where my husband proposed, Florence will always hold a special place in my heart.
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Day 1: Wander on foot

A sampling of soaps at Officina Profumo Farmaceutica Santa Maria Novella (Photo credit: Jillian Emory)
After checking into your hotel, take this first half day to get lost—in the best way! Florence is small enough that you can walk the main part of the city center (from the train station to the Basilica di Santa Croce) in under 25 minutes. This allows you to get a true feel for Florence—its Renaissance architecture, lively piazzas, and predisposition toward beauty in every corner.
For lovers and appreciators of perfume, skin care, and more, don’t miss the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, just a few minutes from the train station. Built for Dominican friars back in 1221, it is now thought to be the oldest pharmacy in the world. Today, you’ll get to enjoy the beauty of the store and museum and have the chance to purchase perfume inspired by that worn by Caterina de’ Medici in the 1530s. My two recommended fragrances are Tabacco Toscano and Angeli di Firenze.
For dinner on your first night, enjoy a classic Florentine spot—La Giostra. You’ll dine under a romantic canopy of string lights and wooden beams, enjoying some of Florence’s most typical dishes. While they’re known for their pear ravioli, I also recommend their pappardelle con ragù di cinghiale (pasta with ragù made from local wild boar—a Tuscan must-have).
And don’t forget your after-dinner dessert—gelato from my favorite spot, Gelateria dei Neri.
Day 2: An art lover’s dream

Un panino at All'Antico Vinaio (Photo credit: Jillian Emory)
Whether you are an art aficionado or only somewhat paid attention in history class, you’ll undoubtedly see pieces of art you recognize all across the city. Known as the birthplace of the Renaissance, no trip to Florence is complete without visiting the city’s two most famous art museums—the Galleria dell'Accademia di Firenze (or the Accademia) and the Gallerie degli Uffizi (or the Uffizi).
Start your day off early at a bar (what Americans would call a café) close to your hotel—no research here is necessary, as you’ll find them all over any city you go to in Italy. Some of the most authentic spots are the ones hidden in small alleys or a bit off the beaten path, so don’t be afraid to explore. I personally recommend un cappuccino and un cornetto al cioccolato, but you’ll find plenty of pastries depending on your tastes (maybe you’ll even want to try a new one each morning!). One tip here is to not expect American coffee at these cafés—if you ask for un caffè, you’ll get a shot of espresso. For something more familiar, ask for un caffè americano, or a shot of espresso with hot water added.
After you’re caffeinated, head to the Uffizi and meet your first recognizable piece of artwork—the Birth of Venus by Botticelli. While you can certainly navigate the museum on your own, I always recommend tours, especially for large museums like this one. Your guide will take you through all of the highlights and share important history and insights about what you’re seeing, bringing life to the information written on plaques. I recommend finding a guide. Feel free to reach out to me, your advisor, and I can assist.
After your morning museum visit, lunch is at the nearby famous sandwich shop All’Antico Vinaio. Don’t let the large crowds scare you away, as the shop hires crowd-control staff to help direct you and keep the lines moving. As Phil Rosenthal of "Somebody Feed Phil" said, “Some places are touristy for a reason!” and this place embodies that perfectly. Once you’ve gotten your panino, stroll over to the Arno River to eat it and people-watch. And don’t sleep on the wine (my husband says the best wine he’s ever had was a €3 plastic cup from All’Antico Vinaio).
Enjoy a 15-minute post-lunch walk to the second museum of the day, the Accademia. Here you’ll meet Michelangelo’s David, as well as many of his other most famous sculptures. The same suggestions apply here—get a guide.
Wrap up your day with a leisurely aperitivo in Piazza della Repubblica overlooking the famous carousel, followed by dinner at Buca Lapi, which claims to be the oldest restaurant in the city and is known for its Bistecca alla Fiorentina (or Florentine steak). This large dish (typically meant for two) highlights Tuscany’s tradition and expertise in cattle. One thing to note is that this steak is typically served quite rare, and it can be considered a faux pas to ask for it cooked further.
Day 3: Views for days

Looking up at the awe-inspiring Duomo of Florence (Photo credit: Jillian Emory)
Today’s itinerary honors two of the city’s most iconic landmarks, both of which happen to be known for their amazing vistas of the city.
Start your day with either breakfast at your hotel or at a local bar (or both!). Either way, I recommend trying a new pastry this morning—perhaps un cornetto al pistacchio?
Your first amazing view will come from the Duomo, or the famous Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. First, spend some time outside admiring the architecture of the various structures—not just the cathedral itself, but also the neighboring baptistery and bell tower. When you’re ready, head inside the cathedral (this is where a guided tour can also be useful, as tours typically allow you to skip the long lines that wind all around the outside of the Duomo). Once you’re inside, and if you’re brave enough, you can climb Brunelleschi’s Dome. While the climb can feel a bit tough and claustrophobic at 463 steps, you’ll be rewarded with magnificent 360-degree views of the city at the top.
Reward yourself for your hard work by having lunch at the Mercato Centrale, which is full of different food and wine stands that allow everyone to try what they wish. If you’re still feeling brave from the morning, consider trying another classic Florentine dish—the lampredotto, or a sandwich made of cow’s stomach (similar to tripe).
As you leave the Mercato Centrale, you’ll pass by the San Lorenzo leather market, the most popular outdoor leather market in a city known for its leather. Take some time to peruse the main aisles and stalls—even if you don’t buy anything, it’s still a sight to see! And if you do want to purchase something, don’t be afraid to haggle with the seller. For more on leather, check out the Scuola del Cuoio (Florence’s leather school, which also offers goods for purchase), which is on the way to your final destination for the day.
As you round out the afternoon and move into the early evening, you can either take a leisurely 30-minute walk or a taxi up to Piazzale Michelangelo. Set on the other side of the Arno River, the piazzale is a wonderful meeting point overlooking the historic center of Florence. It’s a great place to people-watch, enjoy the sunset, and grab a drink. For the same views but fewer crowds, travel a bit farther up the hill to San Miniato al Monte, where you may even hear monks chanting!
Complete your evening with dinner close to your hotel to rest after a full day of climbing and walking. But don’t forget your after-dinner treat at a local gelateria! I also recommend Edoardo and RivaReno.
Day 4: A trip to wine country

The beautiful rolling vineyards of Molino di Grace
Now that you’ve seen many of Florence’s main sites within the city, treat yourself on your last day to a trip to wineries in the local Chianti region!
Many of these trips depart from the Florence bus station just behind the train station. Whether you’re looking for a full-day excursion or just a few hours, you’ll find something that meets your needs. Some day trips, in addition to tastings at a few wineries, also offer food pairings, full meals (lunch or dinner), and stops in other cities and towns throughout Tuscany, such as Siena, San Gimignano, or Pisa.
When I last did this excursion, we took a five-hour tour that took us to two wineries—Tenuta Torciano and Molino di Grace. It was a great way to learn about the products, taste some delicious wines, olive oils, and other goods, and still be back in Florence in time for dinner. And better yet, we also were able to buy some wine and have it shipped to us at home to serve as a memory for our great time in Chianti.
If you’re back in the city and looking for a spot for dinner, check out the Santo Spirito neighborhood across the Arno River—here, you’ll find a more residential neighborhood home to my favorite pizzeria in the city, Gustapizza.
Need to know
Feel free to switch up the order of days in this itinerary—just be aware that many museums in Florence are closed on Mondays.

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Jillian Emory
Jillian Emory
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