St Andrews, Scotland Beyond the Old Course: A Former Student’s Guide for First-Timers

Walk the pier

St. Andrews students have walked the pier after church on Sundays for over a century, most still in their iconic red gowns. You don't need to be a student to do it—just head out along the harbor wall at high tide and look back at the cathedral ruins as you go.

Climb St. Rule's Tower

The cathedral itself has been roofless since the 1500s, but the tower next door is still climbable. The 156 steps up are worth it for a single view that takes in the whole town, the harbor, and the coastline.

See the Swilcan Bridge (without playing a round)

You don't have to golf, or even like golf, to appreciate standing on the same small stone bridge photographed by every player from Old Tom Morris to Tiger Woods. It sits right off the road, so you can walk past the 1st and 18th holes of the Old Course for free.

Walk Lade Braes

This is the path people use to escape the tourist (or student!) crowds—a quiet, stream-side walk that runs from the edge of town out past old mill ruins into the countryside. It's the perfect reset if the town center feels busy.

Visit the Botanic Garden

Eighteen acres with charming woodland walks, simple tea room, a glasshouse, and a collection of plants that's genuinely surprising for a town this size. Overlooked by most visitors and, honestly, by a lot of students too.

Walk through St. Salvator's Quad

Classes have been taught here since the 1400s, and it's open to walk through during the day—it's also where most of my Social Anthropology classes were held. Look for the initials "PH" set into the cobbles on the outside of the entrance: legend says stepping on them dooms you to fail your degree, so students still walk or even hop over them. On graduation day, the procession from the hall to the quad includes all the students stepping on the PH!

West Sands Beach

The wide, flat beach at the west end of town, familiar as the opening shot of "Chariots of Fire." It's also a great spot on its own terms, not just a photo you take and leave.

Time your visit around Raisin Weekend, if you dare (mid-November)

This is the university's tradition where new students get "adopted" by academic parents, play games, compete in scavenger hunts, and top it all off with a costumed foam fight. Just beware that some go more wild than others!

Janetta's

Ask anyone who's spent time in St. Andrews and they'll tell you: "Fancy a cheeky Janetta's?" is basically a local greeting. They have over 100 gelato flavors, and it's been a South Street fixture since the 1950s.

Cottage Kitchen

Tucked down an alley off Market Street, it's easy to walk past entirely if you don't already know it's there. Some of the best cakes in town.

Gorgeous

The best scones in St. Andrews, full stop. Get them to take away or sit upstairs, which looks like it was decorated by everyone's favorite grandma and never touched since.

Old Union Coffee Shop

A coffee shop tucked inside the cobblestoned old student union. The food won't win any award, but I spent four years studying there, and it's the place I'd send anyone who wants a real sense of student life rather than the postcard version.

Cromars

My vote for the best fish and chips in a town full of contenders. Get it to eat on the harbor wall if the weather cooperates.

Northpoint Café

Famous round the world as the place where Kate met Wills (for coffee), I'm personally a bigger fan of their pancakes.

Maisha

The Indian takeaway every student has on speed dial, and surprisingly nice for a sit-down meal as well. Good for a low-key dinner.

The Whey Pat

A cozy corner pub near the West Port. Order the haggis nachos—they're shockingly delicious.

Forgan's

The move for a proper sit-down dinner, set in a converted golf club workshop. Good for a date night or an occasion. Don't skip the sticky toffee pudding.

Afternoon tea at The Old Course Hotel

Even if you're not staying here, you can stop by for a luxurious afternoon tea with sea views over the 17th hole. Worth booking ahead.