La Fortuna: Beyond the Volcano

La Fortuna, nestled at the base of the Arenal Volcano, welcomes you into a landscape where nature sets the pace and every moment feels intentionally alive. While it is one of Costa Rica’s most celebrated destinations, its true character unfolds far beyond the familiar postcard scenes. There is a quiet mysticism here, born from the constant dialogue between a dormant yet active volcano, the agricultural and cattle farms that nourish much of the country, and the waters that weave through the landscape as rivers, lakes, waterfalls, and thermal springs.

Farm to the table, cooking class at La Finquita

This is a place that gently invites choice. You may pause and surrender to contemplation in its warm, mineral-rich waters—or awaken your senses through the adrenaline of canyons, white-water rapids, and cascading waterfalls. During this visit, I was gifted the chance to experience all of these contrasts in two days. It confirmed what I had long sensed: for those seeking a slower, more intentional journey, La Fortuna can hold you for 4 to 5 days without ever feeling repetitive.

Hugo harvesting fresh plantains for our cooking class at La Finquita.

This time, I want to share two experiences that deeply shaped my stay: La Finquita de Jacamar and Hotel Amor Arenal.

La Finquita de Jacamar, to me, is Costa Rica in its purest expression. It is a space designed to reveal the most authentic way of living pura vida. I was welcomed with a tasting of seasonal products prepared by the kitchen’s team, guided by Javier, who, after more than twenty years in the culinary world, has transformed this place into his personal gastronomic laboratory.

Annatto seeds (achiote), the natural spice that gives Costa Rican cuisine its signature color and flavor.

Here, handcrafted chileras are born, blending Panamanian and habanero peppers with fruity notes of passion fruit, apple, and guanábana, served alongside artisanal cheeses. What impressed me most was discovering that they produce their own banana vinegar, which forms the base of these creations. Then came the liqueurs: made from aromatic herbs, cacao, and coffee grown on the farm, many crafted through ginger fermentation. If you visit, do not miss the mocha cream liqueur, a true indulgence for the palate.

Rows of vibrant pitaya growing under the tropical sun, part of the region’s rich agricultural biodiversity.

Later, Hugo arrived to guide me through the land where everything begins. We walked along the river as he explained the different cultivation methods. We first entered areas of natural regeneration. Lands once fully dedicated to cattle ranching, now reclaimed by the forest. From there, we moved into a space of spontaneous agrobiodiversity, where pineapple, banana, pitaya, and cacao coexist naturally. Even as a Costa Rican, the depth of knowledge Hugo shared surprised me at every step.

A special rainforest moment: spotting the colorful ‘blue jeans frog,’ region’s iconic and fascinating species.

We then reached the trapiche, and nostalgia quietly took over. I couldn’t leave without biting into the fresh sugarcane, savoring its slow, fibrous sweetness. In that simple act, my grandmother’s voice came to me—telling stories of how Indigenous peoples didn’t need dentists, because chewing sugarcane was a natural way of caring for their teeth. Thinking of her, and of those ancestral stories passed down through generations, made me smile with deep tenderness, as if time itself had briefly stood still.

In-room jacuzzi relaxation at Amor Arenal, with complimentary handcrafted minibar treats.

Our final stop was the garden, where we selected the ingredients for our wood-fire cooking class. Preparing pollo achiotado, seasoned with annatto, amid laughter and shared stories transported me straight into the heart of Costa Rican tradition. The cook told us how, in small towns, Sunday mornings were once spent releasing chickens at dawn, and the child who caught the heaviest one would win a prize. That very chicken would later be cooked and shared as a family meal, surrounded by patacones, pico de gallo, hand-pressed tortillas, and freshly prepared food, all gathered around the fire.

Morning practice on the yoga platform at Amor Arenal, surrounded by rainforest stillness.

For my stay, I chose Hotel Amor Arenal, a place I had visited about five years ago, when it first opened. Returning felt like reuniting with old friends. Many familiar faces from the staff were still there, a quiet testament to things being done with care and integrity, to a project that began with hope and is now enjoying its well-earned fruits.

It’s impossible not to feel love at Amor Arenal. Everything is conceived from that place. From the artisanal sweets awaiting you in your room, crafted by the hotel’s own pastry kitchen, which you can visit and immerse yourself in aromas of chocolate, to the thoughtfully designed wellness spaces: a gym, meditation platform, yoga shalas, spa, and thermal pools both inside and outside the rooms.

The hotel also offers culinary experiences that invite you to linger: intimate tastings, small gastronomic journeys through different regions of Costa Rica. I had the pleasure of meeting Rafa, the owner, a deeply genuine soul. At that moment, everything made sense. Amor Arenal is what it is because Rafa is a romantic at heart, someone who truly believes everything should be done with love. And from that honest, sensitive, profoundly human place, this sanctuary was born.

Leaving La Fortuna after this experience didn’t feel like a goodbye, but rather a quiet promise to return. Because some places are not merely visited. They are felt, remembered, and carried with you long after the journey ends.

Choose your hotel location strategically: Staying near the town center offers easy access to restaurants and local shops, while properties closer to the volcano provide more privacy and nature immersion. If you choose a resort-style property outside town, plan transportation in advance. Amor Arenal is an excellent option, as they include complimentary shuttle service to La Fortuna town, making mobility effortless during your stay.

Visit the hot springs in the late afternoon or evening: Many travelers find that soaking in the thermal waters at sunset or after dark creates a more relaxing and atmospheric experience, especially after a day of adventure activities.

Balance adventure with restoration: La Fortuna offers an extraordinary range of outdoor experiences: canyoning, rafting, waterfall hikes, rainforest trails, and wildlife tours, so it is wise to alternate active days with wellness or relaxation experiences such as spa treatments or thermal baths.

Bring proper footwear and rain protection: Even during the dry season, the rainforest climate can bring sudden rain showers. Lightweight rain jackets and sturdy hiking shoes make a significant difference in comfort.

Explore beyond the volcano: While Arenal is iconic, the region is also known for hanging bridges, waterfalls, river safaris, wildlife reserves, and farm-to-table culinary experiences that provide a deeper connection to the destination.

Reserve high-demand experiences in advance: Private dinners, guided adventure tours, and wellness treatments tend to fill quickly, especially during peak travel seasons, so early reservations ensure availability and the best experience.

For more travel inspiration and insider recommendations, check out our Costa Rica page.