Gothenburg: Sweden’s Friendly West Coast City

Family fun at Liseberg & Universeum

Like many Swedish families, we try to visit Liseberg almost every summer. Beyond the wooden rollercoasters and the fun, the gardens are stunning. Right next door is Universeum, which has an indoor rainforest and aquarium, making it a perfect escape if the West Coast rain rolls in. If Liseberg is your focus, stay at Liseberg Grand Curiosa Hotel right by the entrance; it’s wonderfully whimsical, and the rooftop bar, Mei Mei, is enjoyed by adults too.

Fika in Haga

Haga is the heart of fika culture. You have to visit Café Husaren for the Hagabullen; a cinnamon bun the size of a dinner plate. After your sugar hit, take the steep walk up to Skansen Kronan, an old fortress with a great view of the city. Look for Skansen Lejonet, its “sister” tower, standing guard on a nearby hill.

Wildlife in Slottsskogen Park

A massive green lung with a small zoo that is free to enter and remains open long into the light summer evenings. At the very least, go say hello to the seals and the moose. For lunch, do a picnic like the locals or visit Villa Belparc by the pond. At the edge of the park is The Natural History Museum, a personal favorite. It houses the only mounted blue whale in the world. I loved it as a kid, and still love it, old-school as it is.

Lunch at Feskekörka

Recently renovated and more vibrant than ever, the “Fish Church” is the city’s temple to seafood. Keep it classic and grab a räksmörgås (shrimp sandwich) to eat by the canal. It’s the essential, unpretentious Gothenburg lunch.

People watching on Avenyn

Kungsportsavenyn, or Avenyn for short, is Sweden’s favorite big city street, grand and undeniably romantic with its many outdoor cafes good for people watching. At the top of the avenue stands the ever-debated Poseidon statue and behind it the Gothenburg Museum of Art. Inside, don’t miss the 6th floor with the world’s finest collection of Nordic turn-of-the-century art. In the opposite direction is the Trädgårdsföreningen garden, with its lovely “Palmhuset” glasshouse, picnic lawns, and the famous giant water lilies that bloom in the tropical heat of the ponds.

Shopping in Magasinsgatan

For a more contemporary take on the city, head here. This is where to shop for Göteborg brands like Nudie Jeans, NA-KD, and Axel Arigato, and browse the world-renowned interior design shop Artilleriet. Magasinsgatan and the surrounding streets are a great spot for a fika and some serious style inspiration.

Visiting Volvo-land

The whole island of Hisingen is considered “Volvo-land”, but the new World of Volvo museum and showroom is the brand’s heart. It’s a must-visit if you’re here to pick up a new car, but the timber architecture and the storytelling about Swedish safety are fascinating even if you aren’t a “car person”.

Rides on the tram

The sky blue trams are the soul of Göteborg. Hop on the #11 line toward Saltholmen, a scenic route that transitions from city streets to the rocky coastline. In the summer, locals head straight for the giant granite boulders at Saltholmen to sunbathe and jump into the salt water. From here, the ferries can whisk you further out to car-free southern islands like Styrsö or Vrångö.

Feskekörka

The “Fish Church” is the city’s temple to seafood. Recently renovated, it’s the place for an unpretentious räksmörgås (shrimp sandwich) and a glimpse at the day’s local catch.

Kometen

A legendary spot for traditional Swedish husmanskost. This is where you go for the best meatballs in the city and a nostalgic, artistic atmosphere that has hosted the city’s intellectuals for decades.

SK Mat & Människor

An intimate, Michelin-starred experience that celebrates Swedish food heritage. Here you can watch the chefs work and often have them personally serve you. It’s refined dining, but with a warm Gothenburg heart.

Bar Bulot

Located inside the historic Saluhallen market hall, this is a lively, contemporary bistro. It’s high-quality and “foodie”, but with a bustling, social energy that is pure Gothenburg. Also pick up some delicatessen from the food hall while you’re there.

Toso

For a high-energy night out, head to the top of Avenyn. Toso offers modern Pan-Asian flavors in a dark, glamorous, and social setting. It’s one of the most popular “see and be seen” spots in the city.

Heaven 23

Perched at the top of Gothia Towers, this is all about the view. It’s famous for its king size shrimp sandwich, but I recommend it for a cocktail at sunset to see Liseberg and the city lights spread out below you.

Sjöbaren i Haga

A cozy and friendly neighborhood favorite. This is the place for a classic Swedish fish soup or fresh catch of the day in an unpretentious setting right in the heart of the historic Haga district.

Villa Belparc

The best outdoor setting in Slottsskogen Park. Located right on the pond, it’s the perfect spot for a casual lunch or a beer on a sunny afternoon while watching the park life go by.

Café Husaren

You can’t visit Haga without stopping here. It’s the home of the Hagabullen, a giant cinnamon bun. It’s the ultimate, cozy Swedish fika experience.

da Matteo

The local king of specialty coffee. Their location in a courtyard off Magasinsgatan is a city ritual; grab a cardamom bun and a latte and sit outside to soak in the neighborhood’s creative energy.