A Black Traveler’s Guide to Buenos Aires

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Advisor - Mariana Radisic Koliren
Curated By

Mariana Radisic Koliren

  • City Travel

  • LGBTQ+ Travel

  • Black Travel

  • Arts & Culture

  • Argentina

  • Buenos Aires

  • Local Culture

Advisor - A Black Traveler’s Guide to Buenos Aires
Curator’s statement

Buenos Aires is layered, complex, and shaped by Black history that’s often overlooked. As a local who finds beauty in our country’s diverse heritage, I’m committed to making those stories visible—honoring the legacy of Afro-Argentines and celebrating the vibrant contemporary Black culture here. From monuments and museums to drumming circles and nightlife, this city rewards travelers who want to dig deeper. Let me help you experience the Buenos Aires that embraces Black heritage with pride.

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Things to do in Buenos Aires

Toasting with traditional drink Hesperidina con soda. Shot by Carla Guzman for Lunfarda Travel

Stroll San Telmo on Sunday

San Telmo’s cobblestoned streets hold some of Buenos Aires’s richest Black history. Visit the monument to María Remedios del Valle—the Afro-Argentine “Mother of the Homeland” who fought for independence—and pay respect to her overlooked legacy. Support Black-owned businesses like El Tambo Afro, join the lively Sunday market, and immerse yourself in local art, music, and street food.

Take an Afro-Argentine heritage tour

Buenos Aires has a long, complicated history of erasure of its Black communities. Join an Afro-Argentine heritage tour to uncover the hidden stories, visit key historic sites, and connect with local activists and historians keeping these narratives alive. It’s a moving, educational experience that centers voices too often silenced.

Learn candombe with Yael Bonga & family

Experience the heartbeat of Afro-Uruguayan and Afro-Argentine culture with a candombe drumming and dance class led by Yael Bonga and his family. It’s not just a performance—it’s a hands-on way to connect with centuries of resistance and rhythm passed down through generations.

Sunset on the water: yacht or ferry

For a romantic or contemplative end to the day, watch the sun set behind Buenos Aires’s skyline from the water. Charter a private yacht for an unforgettable experience, or try the new ferry service connecting Puerto Madero and La Boca for a budget-friendly but equally stunning view of the city at golden hour.

Explore Afro-centered nightlife

Buenos Aires’ Black party scene is vibrant and proudly expressive. Dance the night away at Kilombo or Kolors—two of the city’s best-known Afro parties featuring DJs, dance battles, and a mix of hip hop, dancehall, and afrobeats. The energy is electric, welcoming, and unpretentious.

Experience AfroLGBTIQA+ ballroom culture

Don’t miss the thriving ballroom scene led by the legendary House of Yeguaza. Buenos Aires’s AfroLGBTIQA+ community shows up with unapologetic style, radical inclusivity, and fierce performances. Whether you’re walking a category or just cheering on the artists, it’s an essential window into the city’s intersectional queer-Black culture.

Places to eat & drink in Buenos Aires

Breakfast at Panadería de Anchoita. Shot by Carla Guzman for Lunfarda Travel

El Gauchito

A humble spot in the city’s southern barrios with some of Buenos Aires’s most legendary empanadas. This Black-owned gem is run by Beto, whose warm welcome is half the experience. Expect honest flavors, unpretentious service, and a truly local vibe.

Grandes Carnicerías del Plata

An iconic parrilla in San Telmo with a lively, bustling atmosphere. Come hungry for huge cuts of expertly grilled meat, classic sides, and the kind of friendly, bustling service that defines Buenos Aires dining.

Fogón Asado

A contemporary, interactive take on Argentina’s iconic asado culture. Sit around the fire, talk with the chefs, and share stories with fellow travelers while savoring perfectly grilled meats and seasonal sides.

Chui

A gorgeous vegetarian and vegan restaurant in Palermo. With a lush, leafy patio and globally inspired plant-based dishes, it’s perfect for slow lunches, intimate dinners, and travelers looking for fresh, creative options.

Anchoita (restaurant & panadería)

Modern Argentine cuisine at its finest. Whether you’re at the sleek restaurant for a special dinner or grabbing pastries at the bakery, expect seasonal ingredients, precise technique, and deep respect for local producers.

Elena

Elegant, classic Buenos Aires dining inside the Four Seasons. Dry-aged meats, polished service, and a grand yet welcoming vibe make it perfect for special nights out.

Obrador de Panes

A micro-bakery and café with artisanal breads and pastries. Low-key, friendly, and delicious for breakfast or a snack.

Need to know

Buenos Aires is a city of layered histories, where Black legacy isn’t just a hidden past but a living force reshaping Argentina’s sense of itself. From the rhythms of candombe to the stories of revolutionaries and artists, Afro-Argentine culture has always been part of what makes this city vibrant—even when official histories tried to erase it. Today, that heritage is being reclaimed proudly and visibly, with Black-owned businesses, cultural centers, and communities leading the way. Travelers who come with curiosity and respect will find not just warm hospitality but also a chance to witness and support a city in the process of telling a more honest, inclusive story about who it really is.

Advisor - Mariana Radisic Koliren

Travel Advisor

Mariana Radisic Koliren

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For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our Buenos Aires page.