The Hawai'i of Europe: Explore Madeira

The East: Ponta de São Lourenço

Our guide took us on a stark peninsula hike over the crashing waves that felt like the edge of the world. Breathtaking scenery made us stop multiple times just to gaze out to sea.

Clever thinking, someone built the Casa do Sardinha Sea Spot Cafe in the center of the mountain. We just had a drink, but you can purchase food and use the restroom.

A boat trip out to the lighthouse and back to the parking area costs about 25€ and is an absolute must-do. We rode the waves as we circled the lighthouse—this is not for those who get seasick.

The West: Seixal & Porto Moniz

We decided to brave the “harrowing” switchbacks through the fog in our rental car to reach the black-sand beach of Seixal, where we watched the surfers ride the crashing waves.

For those both adventurous and in shape, hike the 10-kilometer (6 mile) trail up from Pico do Areeio to Pico Ruivo, the highest peak at 1,862 meters (6,109 feet). It will take 4–5 hours depending on your pace. Our guide was fast-paced and never seemed to stop and enjoy the view.

Funchal

In Funchal, we visited the Mercado dos Lavradores (Farmer’s Market) on Friday, where we admired the best floral and produce displays while shopping for edible souvenirs.

Unfortunately, we were unable to take the cable car up 3,200 meters (10,499 feet) to the Monte Palace Tropical Gardens due to its closure for maintenance, but it’s highly recommended and you can take the Monte Toboggans back down. These sledges first originated in the early 19th century when they were used as the first means of “downhill” public transportation by local residents who wanted to travel quickly from the village.

The highlight of the day was sitting at the Chef’s Table for a tasting menu at Kampo on the outskirts of Old Town—watching as the staff prepared our innovative local fish, beef, and vegetable dishes made the gourmet meal a treasured evening.

My favorite meal was Kampo in Funchal. Book a Chef’s Table and have the tasting menu, just make sure to save room for the dessert.

Ponta do Sol

Known as the sunniest town, we enjoyed amazing clams at a unique restaurant—a former jail built directly into the cliff called Estalagem da Ponta do Sol. It’s a steep climb, but the but the sunset views over the waterfall are world-class.

We stayed in Calheta, and loved the fresh catch at the waterfront bistros like Marina Azul Restaurante.

Looking for something different, we decided to try the wood-fired oven pizza and gelato at Manifattura Di Gelato and it was outstanding.

Porto Moniz

In Porto Moniz, Cachalote makes the traditional Espada com Banana (Blackscabbard fish with fried bananas). We enjoyed it while sitting among the volcanic tidal pools. They were breathtaking, but strictly for those who enjoy “invigorating” (unheated) Atlantic temperatures!