4 Fast-Paced Days in NYC with My 12-Year-Old

We arrived at JFK around 7:30 pm and I quickly realized my first mistake.

Pro tip #1: Book private airport transportation. I hadn’t pre-arranged airport transportation because my research told me Ubers and taxis were easy to come by. The taxi line rivaled those you find at Disneyland. We waited…and waited…and eventually were on our way to the hotel. Don’t make the same mistake I did. While the taxi was less expensive than private transportation, after factoring in tolls and time wasted, not by much. We would have arrived at least an hour earlier and far less flustered.

I’ve done a number of client bookings in the city, so I was familiar with the different neighborhoods and hotel styles. Instead of opting for a large brand or full-on opulence, I chose a smaller boutique hotel in the Garment District—and we adored everything about the Refinery Hotel. I’ve always loved the Small Luxury Hotels group, and this felt like a true hidden gem, with an unassuming entrance and cozy lobby. It was the perfect fall vibe. After an easy check-in, we finally made it to our room: modern, warm, and welcoming, with high ceilings, hardwood floors, and bathroom tiles reminiscent of the 1940s. After a couple episodes of Owning Manhattan (only fitting), we got some rest in the very comfortable beds and prepared for our first full day.

I recommend getting an early start—which is easier said than done on West Coast time. We grabbed breakfast at Parker & Quinn right in the hotel. The French toast is amazing, and the food is surprisingly reasonably priced. After a quick consult with the front desk on our subway strategy, we headed to our first stop: the American Museum of Natural History, which is a must with kids. You can easily spend hours here—dinosaurs, space exhibits, and interactive displays make it endlessly engaging.

Pro tip #2: Bypass the long lines by purchasing tickets in advance or using the QR codes available at the entrance. I thought I was being smart by buying a CityPASS to save a few dollars, but you still have to wait in line to convert it to tickets, so I don’t recommend that for this particular attraction. Also, depending on your schedule, waiting until the afternoon might make sense—there wasn’t a single line by the time we left.

We had 3:45 pm reservations at the Empire State Building, so we headed back toward our neighborhood, walked through Bryant Park, and grabbed lunch from a local vendor. If you have more time, though, I’d recommend spending the afternoon exploring Central Park while you’re on the Upper West Side.

The CityPASS did save us time and money at the Empire State Building. We reached the top just before dusk, which was beautiful, but if you can book early enough, I recommend sunset or just after sunset when the entire city lights up. I thought it might be cheesy, but it ended up being one of the highlights of the trip.

We had early dinner reservations at The Smith. It’s a chain, but it still felt authentic. Be prepared—dining in NYC means noise and close quarters. I felt like I was essentially on a first date with our neighbors to the right (I don’t think there was a second date) and part of a political debate with our neighbors to the left. That said, the cocktails were great, the service was fast and attentive, and Emma loved her mac and cheese skillet.

From there, we walked to Times Square. It’s insane, but you really shouldn’t skip it. We walked several blocks in, hit up a souvenir shop, then sought refuge back at our quiet hotel.

We planned for this to be a slower-paced day. Our original plan included the Brooklyn Bridge and Central Park, but sleep won. After another leisurely breakfast at Parker & Quinn, we took the subway to Central Park. I had a list of must-sees, but after wandering aimlessly for a bit, we caved and accepted a tuk-tuk tour, and it was worth every penny. We saw all the major highlights while Kevin shared the history and let us spend as much time as we wanted at each stop for photos.

We grabbed cubed watermelon from a park vendor, then headed back to change for Wicked at the Gershwin Theatre (absolutely amazing).

Pro tip #3: Ladies—get in the bathroom line immediately at intermission. The line was so long that we were forced to head back into the theater before using the restroom so we wouldn’t miss the second act. After the show wasn’t much better, so plan accordingly.

Pro tip #4: If you’re trying to catch a taxi or ride-share after a Broadway show, walk a few blocks away from the theater. It’s absolute chaos right outside, and you’ll save yourself a lot of stress.

We headed to the West Village. If you have some time to spend here, do it. It's absolutely charming and such a departure from the most of Manhattan, with little shops and tree-lined streets. Dinner that night was at L’Artusi, a warm, welcoming Italian restaurant that felt like a treat without being stuffy. The food was a little fancy for Emma’s taste, and once again, it was noisy, but I won her over by ordering two desserts.

We took a very crowded subway home and, against my better judgment, walked through Times Square again, then finally retired to our room—fulfilled and exhausted.

Our final morning included breakfast at the hotel (routine wins), followed by Fifth Avenue shopping. Even window shopping here feels special.

Before heading to the airport, we stopped at the hotel’s Refinery Rooftop for an espresso martini for me and a cookie skillet for my daughter. They were kind enough to comp Emma’s cookie since they didn’t have hot cocoa, and it was the perfect way to end the trip. The doorman pre-arranged our taxi and even gifted us a Refinery Hotel candle after we commented on how incredible the lobby smelled.

We watched the city fade away in the rearview mirror and exhaled for what felt like the first time in four days. We relaxed in the Admirals Club until it was time to board our flight home to Seattle.