Curator’s statement
As a Swede with relatives in Skåne, the south has always been my favorite escape. I’ve visited since I was a child, and remember watching the Öresund Bridge being built from my aunt’s garden. These days, I return with my family to rediscover Skåne’s unique golden light and summery charm. I hope this guide is helpful even if you’re just day-tripping from Copenhagen to Malmö or Lund with the train across the bridge. But I hope you venture further to the white-sand dunes of Skanör, the mystical Viking ruins in Kåseberga, and the country-chic coast of Österlen with its farm shops, handicrafts, and apple orchards. If you head north, you can visit the historic island of Ven, spot Hamlet’s castle across the straits, and enjoy the chic restaurant scene in Båstad. These are the places that define the high-summer Swedish lifestyle. This is my beloved Skåne, curated for the modern voyager. - Mats Ulenius at Murbeaux Voyages
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Things to do in Sweden
The iconic pastel bath huts of Skanör, nestled in the dunes.
The urban gateways: Malmö & Lund
Most travelers arrive in Skåne by train to Malmö or Lund, either from Stockholm or via the bridge from Copenhagen.
Malmö, once defined by its industrial shipyards, has evolved into Sweden’s most creative and diverse urban hub. Start in the Old Town (Gamla Staden) with its historic squares like Lilla Torg, then head toward the sea to Västra Hamnen (the Western Harbor). It is worth the walk to see the twisting Turning Torso up close and catch a silhouette of the Öresund Bridge stretching toward Denmark. If the weather is fair, you’ll find locals out on the wooden decks of Daniaparken, a favorite spot for a dip in the Öresund.
Just 15 minutes away via the purple “Pågatågen” trains is Lund, a city that feels like a Swedish Oxford. It is a place of cobblestones and ivy-draped university buildings centered around a massive 12th-century Cathedral. Descend into the crypt to find the “Giant Finn”–a stone figure hugging a pillar that is a centerpiece of local folklore. For a taste of local life, visit the Lund Saluhall to browse regional delicacies, or book a stately lunch at the Grand Hotel.
Spring tip: If your visit to Lund falls on April 30th, you’ll witness Valborg (Walpurgis Eve). It is the ultimate Swedish spring rite and a favorite from my youth; join the thousands of students who gather around the bonfire in Stadsparken to celebrate the end of winter. It is a magical time, as the signature magnolia trees in Lundagård usually hit their peak bloom just in time for the festivities.
The beachy south coast and the artistic east
Heading south from Malmö, the landscape flattens into the white-sand dunes of Skanör and Falsterbo. This is the Swedish Riviera at its most classic; a place of barefoot luxury and rows of iconic, pastel-colored bath huts. It is the perfect spot for a long coastal walk and a quick dip. For a sophisticated lunch with a high-end beach club vibe right on the dunes, book a table at Badhytten.
The journey continues east toward Ystad. This town feels frozen in the 17th century with its leaning timber-framed houses and hollyhocks. While it’s famous as the backdrop for the Wallander detective series, it feels more like a fairytale town. Down by the beach, Ystad Saltsjöbad is one of Sweden’s most iconic “badhotell”.
East of Ystad, you enter Österlen, with its rolling hills and apple orchards. This is the heart of Skåne’s rural chic, filled with local handicrafts and farm shops like Mandelmanns Trädgårdar and Karl Fredrik’s Eklaholm.
In Kåseberga on the coast, 59 massive boulders form a Viking ship-shaped monolith on a cliff edge overlooking the Baltic. Before leaving, grab a traditional smoked fish sandwich at Kåseberga Fisk.
Further up the east coast is the apple capital, Kivik, where you can stop for local apple juice and fika. Or, head north to Wanås Konst. This world-class sculpture park is a silent experience where contemporary art is integrated into an ancient forest. It is well worth staying overnight at the estate’s boutique hotel or stopping for a farm-to-table lunch at the on-site restaurant.
The social west coast
The west coast is more populated and offers more social energy than the quiet fields of the East.
A favorite escape is the island of Ven, sitting right in the middle of the Öresund. Catch the ferry from Landskrona for a perfect day trip; renting the iconic yellow bicycles is the best way to explore its rolling hills and visit the 16th-century observatory of the astronomer Tycho Brahe. It is a whimsical detour where the sea is always in sight, with several casual eateries for a relaxed lunch.
Further north is Mölle, a picturesque harbor town with a daring history. In the early 1900s, it had a sinful reputation for being the first place in Europe to allow men and women to bathe together—though by today’s standards, they were quite modest in their striped wool suits. Today, Mölle serves as the gateway to the Kullaberg Nature Reserve, where jagged cliffs and sea caves offer the most dramatic coastal hiking in Southern Sweden. For those who don’t mind a steep, adventurous trek, the massive driftwood sculpture Nimis is a hidden, surrealist landmark worth the effort.
The coast culminates in the summer town of Båstad. While most known for its tennis tournament and coastal-chic nightlife, the town’s calmer side is found in Norrviken, a series of spectacular style-gardens overlooking the sea. Down by the harbor, the iconic Kallbadhuset (cold bath house) sits at the end of a long pier, offering a classic Swedish sauna and sea-dip experience.
Just a short drive away is Båstad’s quiet luxury cousin, Torekov. If Båstad is about the spectacle, Torekov is about elevated simplicity; stop at Rapps Konditori for a traditional fika and watch the locals go about their morning ritual—the walk to the pier in a bathrobe is the local norm.
Places to eat & drink in Sweden
Traditional Swedish shrimp sandwich. Yes, there's some bread underneath. Photo by Mats Ulenius / Murbeaux Voyages.
Ruths, Malmö: The vibrant heart of the city’s food scene. By day, it’s a bustling bakery and deli; by night, it transforms into a cozy bistro serving seasonal comfort food—perfect for a long dinner paired with a glass from their excellent wine list.
The Grand Bistro, Lund: A classic at the historic Grand Hotel. The setting is spectacular, offering a refined “old world” vibe—perfect for their famous meatballs or a classic shrimp sandwich.
Badhytten, Skanör: Classy beach club energy. The best spot for a long, rosé-fueled lunch with your feet in the sand.
Villa Strandvägen, Ystad: A beautifully restored turn-of-the-century villa that calls itself a “restaurant with rooms.” The central open kitchen creates a warm, domestic atmosphere where you can watch the chefs prepare refined, seasonal dishes as if you were in a private home.
Kåseberga Fisk, Kåseberga: The essential coastal stop. After visiting nearby Ale Stenar, grab a smoked fish platter or a “sillamacka” (herring sandwich) and eat outside overlooking the harbor.
VYN, Simrishamn: Chef Daniel Berlin’s latest masterpiece on Österlen. This is a world-class destination for anyone serious about gastronomy; be sure to ask for a bottle of Solaris, the crisp white grape that has put Skåne’s vineyards on the map.
Talldungen Gårdshotell, Brösarp: A cult favorite. The menu is rustic and soulful, blending Nordic and Mediterranean influences. They are pioneers of the local wine scene, often stocking bottles from nearby vineyards like Arilds Vingård.
Wanås Restaurant, Östra Göinge: True farm-to-table dining on a historic estate. Most of the ingredients come directly from the organic farm and forest surrounding the sculpture park.
Olof Viktors Café, Glemminge: A legendary bakery and farm shop in the Österlen countryside. Their wood-fired oven produces some of the best bread and fika in Sweden.
Rapps Konditori, Torekov: The local institution. Join the “bathrobe crowd” in the morning for fresh rolls and a coffee by the harbor.
Need to know
Getting there: If arriving internationally, Copenhagen Airport (CPH) is your primary hub. From there, frequent direct trains cross the Öresund Bridge to Malmö in about 25 minutes, and to Lund in 40.
Getting around: Public transport in the region is managed by Skånetrafiken. Download their app to easily buy tickets for buses and the regional “Pågatågen” trains. To explore the farm shops and beaches of Österlen, and the coastlines in general, a car is recommended.
Payment: Like the rest of Sweden, Skåne is almost entirely cashless. Credit and debit cards are accepted everywhere, from high-end hotels to small rural farm shops.
Swedish Fika: A daily ritual that is mandatory in Skåne. Whether it’s a wood-fired cardamom bun on Österlen or fresh rolls by the harbor in Torekov, always leave time for a coffee break.
Kallbadhus & Sauna Etiquette: At the kallbad (cold bath), the ritual is to have a sauna, do a cold plunge, and repeat. Most are divided by gender, but some have a mixed section. In these traditional places, swimwear is not allowed in the sauna for hygiene reasons. You are supposed to always sit on a towel, and wrapping yourself up in a towel is normal and perfectly fine. While many also go nude for the swim, wearing swimwear for the plunge is absolutely fine. In mixed sections, people always use swimwear. Bring your own padlock for the lockers and a large towel. At more modern spas and hotels, swimwear is also used in the saunas.
Travel Advisor
Murbeaux Voyages
Mats Ulenius
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