Echoes of Craters & Coastal Breezes: My 3-Day Azores Odyssey

The Azores Islands are part of Portugal, made up of nine volcanic isles across three archipelagos: the Eastern Group (Santa Maria and São Miguel), the Central Group (Terceira, Graciosa, São Jorge, Pico, and Faial), and the Western Group (Flores and Corvo). Best reached by a direct flight from Lisbon (São Miguel is just two and a half hours away), these islands boast lush vegetation, dramatic volcanic landscapes, and rare fauna. Three days in the Azores means choosing one island; we opted for São Miguel, where every crater lake and thermal pool feels like a private discovery. Summer (June to September) offers the most reliable weather for hiking, whale watching, and ocean swims.

Begin in Ponta Delgada, the island’s lively capital. Pro tip: Rent a car and keep a light rain jacket in the glovebox—Azorean skies can shift from sun to mist in minutes. We stayed at Vintage Place – Azorean Guest House for its central location and friendly hosts, but you can also explore bike tours through Portugal Bike Tours if two wheels suit your style.

By 8:30 am, we’d wound our way along coastal roads to Miradouro da Boca do Inferno. A 20-minute flat and gentle uphill trail lined with wild lavender leads to twin lakes—one sapphire, one emerald—framed by drifting clouds. Parking is free but limited, so arrive before 9 am to savor the view in solitude. Cool sea breezes carry a faint tang of eucalyptus, and each breath feels like an invitation to explore further.

Next, tackle the Caldeira Grande loop—a three-hour moderate hike around a volcanic crater. Damp moss cushioned our steps while bird song echoed off jagged cliffs. If you’d rather skip the full circuit, simply pull over at Miradouro do Cerrado das Freiras and Lagoa de Santiago for quick roadside panoramas—no hiking required.

Our penultimate stop was Miradouro da Vista do Rei, perched beside the abandoned Monte Palace Hotel. Broken windows frame the twin lakes like living watercolor paintings; aim for late afternoon light, when golden rays filter through moss-clad walls, bathing everything in honeyed hues.

Cap the day at Ponta da Ferraria—a surreal ocean-fed hot spring carved into black basalt. Descend the slippery stone steps and inhale the sharp saltiness of Atlantic spray mingled with a whisper of sulfur. Here, 46-degree-Celsius thermal water meets 18-degree-Celsius ocean waves in swirling ribbons of steam around obsidian stones. Before dusk, check tide charts (essential), then sink into the briny warmth. As evening falls, reward yourselves with grilled limpet skewers from the seaside hut and an icy Super Bock, listening to waves crash beyond the rocky barrier—an elemental finale to your West Coast debut.

Kick off day two on São Miguel’s east coast with a pre-dawn drive to Vila Franca do Campo marina (25 minutes from Ponta Delgada), where an early-morning whale-and-dolphin cruise awaits. As dawn blushes across the horizon, breath in the crisp salt air, feel the bow spray lightly mist your cheeks, and listen to the gulls chattering overhead. By cruising into deeper waters, you'll be rewarded—if luck’s on your side—with the spout of a sperm whale arching through rose-tinted waves or the playful click-whistles of common and bottlenose dolphins. Insider tip: Layer up, clip on motion-sickness bands, and stash cameras in a dry bag so you don’t miss a single tail flip.

By late morning, steer inland toward Furnas, where the sulfur-tinged breeze greets you like a warm exhale. Circle the mist-shrouded crater lake, your footsteps muffled by damp moss and fallen fern fronds, before slipping into Poça da Dona Beija’s five iron-rich thermal pools. The water’s silky warmth eases every muscle while distant plumes of steam hiss from hidden vents. Pack snacks and water—there’s no café here—and don’t forget a quick towel change in the riverside changing huts.

Next, wander through Parque Terra Nostra’s botanical wonderland, where jade ferns and riotous hydrangeas perfume the air and birdsong drifts across the ochre-tinted communal pool. A leisurely lunch at the on-site restaurant lets you savor local cozido cooked underground, then it's off to Pico do Ferro. Perched at 570 meters, this viewpoint feels like standing atop the world—cool breezes tug at your hair while a patchwork of emerald slopes and steaming fumaroles stretches below. Wooden benches invite you to linger as the sun gilds the Furnas caldera in molten gold. If you still have energy, a quick 12-minute drive brings you to Gorreana Tea Factory, where the gentle rustle of tea leaves and the honeyed aroma of freshly brewed green tea offer the sweetest encore.

Day three lured us into São Miguel’s verdant volcanic core, where every thicket and trail hums with geothermal energy and fern-scented air. Our morning began at Caldeira Velha, though we found the gates shuttered for maintenance. Even from the moss-cloaked entrance, I breathed in the warm, earthy perfume of wet stone and distant steam vents, and I promised myself I’d return for a soak in those terraced pools beneath the vine-draped waterfall.

Just 10 minutes down the road, Miradouro da Lagoa do Fogo rewarded us with a panorama so still the crater lake mirrored the sky. A light breeze carried hints of pine resin and volcanic dust across my cheeks, and when a stray sunbeam pierced the cloud deck, it painted the slopes in molten green and silver.

We laced up for the trail’s descent—every crunchy pine-needle footfall and each rocky scramble feeling like peeling back layers of the island’s history. Mid-hike, I paused on a rocky outcrop to sip icy spring water and listen to the distant murmur of waves hitting the hidden white-sand beach below.

Late afternoon led us to Gorreana Tea Factory, where emerald tea bushes ripple like silk in the coastal breeze. The citrusy aroma of fresh leaves, mixed with the tang of sea salt on the wind, followed us through the centuries-old factory. Over steaming cups of single-estate green tea—tangy yet mellow—I could taste the island’s misty mornings and volcanic soil in every sip, and I tucked a handful of freshly plucked leaves into my bag for home.

On an island where weather can flip from sun-drenched to mist-shrouded in minutes, I recommend building in extra time at each stop—to linger under steaming waterfalls, chase stray sunbursts along crater rims, and let every scent and sight etch itself into your memory.