Costa Smeralda: Beyond the Bling

Best beaches

• Spiaggia di Marinella: A locals’ favorite just south of Porto Rotondo with powdery white sand, shallow turquoise water, and a small beach bar for spritzes. Relaxed and unpretentious.

• Spiaggia La Celvia: Tucked into a protected cove near Capriccioli, framed by smooth granite boulders that glow pink in the afternoon light. Come early to claim a spot.

• Spiaggia di Cala Spinosa: A small, wild beach at Capo Testa surrounded by sculptural granite formations. Worth the short scramble down for jewel-toned water and great snorkeling.

Catamaran to La Maddalena & Caprera

A day trip by catamaran through the Maddalena Archipelago is the highlight of any Costa Smeralda visit. You’ll anchor in secluded bays, snorkel over seagrass meadows, and swim in water so clear it looks photoshopped. Caprera, once Garibaldi’s home, adds a dose of history to the natural beauty.

Boat trip to Tavolara & Isola di Molara

Tavolara’s sheer limestone cliffs rising dramatically from the sea make for one of the most striking landscapes in the Mediterranean. Pair it with a stop at the quieter Isola di Molara for swimming, and you’ve got a day of pure visual drama. Several operators run trips from Porto San Paolo or Olbia.

Capo d’Orso

A short hike through fragrant scrubland leads to the famous “Bear Rock,” a wind-sculpted granite formation overlooking the strait towards La Maddalena. There’s a small entrance fee, and the trail is popular, so don’t expect solitude.

Worth noting: when you reach the top, you’re standing on the bear rather than viewing it from afar, but the panoramic views across the archipelago more than make up for it.

Roam Porto Cervo

Yes, it’s the epicenter of Costa Smeralda’s glitz, but Porto Cervo is still worth a wander. The architecture is a fascinating 1960s vision of “luxury Mediterranean,” and the people-watching is unmatched. Window-shop the designer boutiques, grab a gelato, and soak in the atmosphere.

Palau Friday market

Skip the resort gift shops and head to Palau’s Friday morning market instead. You’ll find local honey, Pecorino, cork crafts, handmade leather goods, quality clothing, and beautiful woodwork. It’s a slice of authentic Sardinian life and a chance to bring home something with a story.

• Il Ghiottone: A low-key, straightforward local restaurant with good ingredients and no fuss. It’s not a fancy vibe, but that’s exactly what makes it perfect after a day on the water when you want something delicious without an eye-watering bill.

• Pizzeria da Serafino e Giovanni: A local pizzeria where the wood-fired oven does the talking. The pizza is thin, blistered, and exactly what you want after a beach day. The environment is relaxed and the prices are reasonable.

• Ristorante Gastronomia Belvedere: Perched at the tip of a small mountain with a fantastic view down towards the sea and islands, Belvedere was the best seafood of our trip. It feels local and has a homey flair, but the food is cooked to a very high standard. A bit fancier than the other spots on this list, and worth it.

• Le Terrazze Ritual: If you want one taste of the Costa Smeralda “scene,” this is the place. Le Terrazze Ritual is a rooftop restaurant and bar carved into the rocks above Baja Sardinia, with cascading terraces, mosaic floors, and sweeping views. It’s undeniably glamorous and undeniably pricey. Come for sunset aperitivi if dinner doesn’t appeal, and stay for the atmosphere. The attached Ritual Club downstairs offers nightlife if you want to keep the evening going.

• Agriturismo La Colti: For a proper Sardinian feast, book a table at this family-run agriturismo in the hills above the coast. The menu is fixed and built around whatever’s been harvested or raised on the farm: house-cured salumi, handmade pasta, roast suckling pig, and local wines. It’s a long, leisurely meal that captures the soul of Sardinian hospitality.