Between the Temples: 5 Unhurried Days in Siem Reap

After a good night’s sleep and settling into your hotel, today is the day you’ve been waiting for. Hire a remorque (the open-air carriage attached to a motorbike, far more comfortable and fun than a regular tuk-tuk) for the day and head to the temples.

Start with Angkor Wat, the largest religious monument in the world. Built in the 12th century by King Suryavarman II, it began as a Hindu temple dedicated to Vishnu before gradually becoming a Buddhist site. The scale is hard to describe until you’re standing in front of it. Get there as early as you can (it doesn’t have to be sunrise early) to beat the heat and the crowds. Angkor Wat is the most exposed temple to the sun, so a hat and water are essential.

When you need a break, stop at Mariko Matcha just outside the complex. Matcha drinks and ice cream that are the perfect reset before your next stop.

From there, head straight to Ta Prohm, the “Tomb Raider temple.” It’s very close and smaller than you’d expect, so you can comfortably do both temples before midday. The enormous tree roots wrapping around the stone ruins make it one of the most photogenic spots in all of Angkor.

Head back to town for lunch and a rest during the hottest part of the day. In the evening, treat yourself to cocktails at Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor. Their bar is elegant and the drinks were some of my favorites in the city.

Start the morning slowly at Dialogue, a lovely café with genuinely great food. Take your time here.

In the afternoon, head to the Angkor National Museum. It’s fully air-conditioned (a welcome escape from the heat) and houses an impressive collection of Khmer artifacts, Buddha statues, and pieces recovered from the temples. The galleries walk you through the history of the Angkor civilization, and visiting before your remaining temple days makes everything you’ll see come alive with context.

In the evening, head to the Scribe Bar at FCC Angkor for bites and drinks. While you’re there, pop into the SATU Concept Store right next door, a beautifully curated shop worth a browse. Finish the night with a walk along the river.

Another remorque day. Ask your driver to take you through both gates of Angkor Thom on the way in. The gates are stunning, lined with rows of stone figures on either side. Get out and walk through one of them to really take it in before hopping back on.

Start at Bayon Temple, the only Buddhist state temple built at Angkor. It was constructed in the late 12th century by King Jayavarman VII, and its most striking feature is the hundreds of enormous stone faces carved into its towers, gazing serenely in every direction. It feels almost surreal in person.

From there, explore the surrounding Angkor Thom complex on foot. The Terrace of the Elephants is a 300-meter-long platform carved with life-sized elephants, garudas, and lions. It was once used by the king as a viewing stand for ceremonies and returning armies. Nearby, the Terrace of the Leper King features some of the most intricate carvings in the complex. Baphuon Temple is also within walking distance, a massive pyramid-style temple that was painstakingly reassembled over decades.

This is a fuller temple day, so pace yourself and carry water. For dinner, head to Romiet Restaurant & Bar, a riverside spot with creatively reimagined Asian dishes. It works beautifully for either lunch or dinner.

Start the morning with a coffee at Bean Embassy, one of the best specialty coffee spots in town.

Then head to the APOPO Visitor Centre, where you can learn about the organization’s incredible work training rats to detect landmines across Cambodia. Tours run every 30 minutes and last about an hour. The tour is outdoors but well-equipped with shade and cooling sprays, so the heat is manageable.

After that, head back to your hotel and spend the rest of the day at the pool. A proper rest day in this heat is what makes the trip sustainable and enjoyable. End the evening at The Dining Room at the Park Hyatt, where the food is excellent and they put on a small cultural performance during the meal.

If you’d prefer something more active, this is also a great day to book a traditional Cambodian massage or a cooking class.

Banteay Srei is about 40 minutes outside the city center, so arrange a car for the day (it’s too far for a remorque). Head out early to make the most of the cooler morning hours.

The temple is smaller than the others, but the pink sandstone carvings are incredibly intricate, widely considered the finest in all of Angkor. It’s less crowded too, which fits the pace of this trip.

On the way back, stop at Mariko Matcha in town. Beyond the matcha and ice cream, they also serve great food, making it a perfect lunch stop.

Spend your last afternoon however feels right: pool, a final walk by the river, or revisiting a favorite spot This is your trip at your pace.