Curator’s statement
Florence is the Renaissance crown of Italy, and I happen to be lucky enough to call it my “big city.” I live in Tuscany, and Florence is where I go to get my nails done, have an espresso with my avvocato (attorney), sip an aperitivo up at Piazzale Michelangelo, or simply discover another hidden gem along the way. After all these years, I always find something new and delightful. The city constantly reveals itself in layers—a tucked-away artisan workshop, a family-run trattoria I’d somehow never noticed, a quiet corner of the Oltrarno bathed in perfect golden light. Florence isn’t just a place I visit. It’s woven into the fabric of my life here in Italy. I adore, adore Florence—and I love sharing its magic with my clients, both the iconic treasures and the intimate secrets that only come from truly knowing a place.
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Things to do in Florence
Villa Bardini: A stunning 17th-century villa with magnificent gardens. I love coming here early to stroll the grounds, especially when the city center is packed with tourists. Tickets run about €20 and grant access to both the gardens and villa—well worth it. To get here, cross the Ponte alle Grazie (not the prettiest bridge, but it will take you over the Arno).
Stefano Bardini Museum: After Villa Bardini, visit this small museum housing a wealthy 17th-century art dealer’s personal collection. It’s intimate, uncrowded, and filled with treasures.
Lorenzo de’ Medici Cooking School: Located in the Mercato area, this fabulous three-hour class costs about €180 but is absolutely worth it. You’ll learn authentic Tuscan techniques and enjoy the fruits of your labor.
Pitti Palace: Don’t let the imposing facade of giant stones fool you—inside is pure magic. The palace houses masterpieces by Raphael, Botticelli, and Caravaggio, and the gardens are incredible. Tickets are around €20.
Palazzo Vecchio: This fortified 13th-century palace features stunning courtyards and interiors. Buy tickets in advance to avoid crowds and ensure entry—the frescoed rooms are breathtaking.
Search for Wine Windows: These small openings are scattered throughout Florence, remnants of the plague era when wine could be purchased without contact. Once you know what to look for, spotting them becomes a delightful treasure hunt. Here are a few addresses to get you started:
Borgo degli Greci, 1/A
Wine Window Signora – Vicolo dello Scandalo, 3R
Buchetta del Vino (Orcagna) – Chiasso dei Baroncelli, 27R
Scuola del Cuoio: No trip to Florence is complete without leather shopping, and the best way to do it is at this leather school inside Santa Croce. Everything is handcrafted, and you’ll find special pieces for yourself and gifts alike. Hours: 9:30 am–5:30 pm. Remember to ask them to monogram anything you purchase!
Signum: If you love stationery, this is your spot for wax stamps, beautiful notebooks, and Italian paper goods.
Ben Heart: For custom leather clothing, Ben is delightful and has made a couple of jackets for me. Lenny Kravitz visits every June to have pants made—and that should give you an idea of the quality. Tell Ben I said hi!
Villa Demidoff: If you need a break from the city, head out to this estate, featuring the famous giant Appennino sculpture and breathtaking gardens. Take the 307A bus or a 24-minute Uber ride. The park is free, so grab one of the sandwiches I recommend in the dining section, a bottle of wine, and enjoy a perfect Tuscan picnic.
Piazzale Michelangelo: This is your number one spot and an absolute must-do for a sunset aperitivo while looking down on the terracotta roofs of Florence. The views simply do not get any better than this for understanding the true majesty of this beautiful city.
Pro Tip: If you can’t walk all the way up (it’s quite a climb), I can arrange a golf cart to whisk you to the top. Always check the sunset time on your phone before you go—it would be a shame to miss it!
Antinori nel Chianti Classico: A visit to Tuscany, renowned for its glorious wines, would not be complete without a tour of the Antinori vineyard and their stunning restaurant, Rinuccio 1180 (formerly Dal 1881). Reservations are essential, and you may want to arrange a car service for the journey.
The majesty of this vineyard is breathtaking—modern and sleek architecture set against rolling hills, yet steeped in 26 generations and nearly 700 years of winemaking tradition. The Antinori family’s history traces back to 1385, when the Medicis crowned them the official winemakers of Tuscany. The experience of touring the cellars, tasting exceptional wines, and dining with panoramic views of the Chianti countryside is unforgettable.
The Legend of the Black Rooster
One final thing of interest: You’ll notice white and black roosters everywhere throughout Florence—on wine bottles, doors, and statues. There’s a wonderful legend behind this symbol.
Florence and Siena were once vying for control of Tuscany. To settle their dispute over territorial boundaries, they decided on a rooster race: at dawn, when the roosters crowed, a rider from each city would depart on horseback, and wherever they met would mark the border.
The Sienese chose a well-fed, content white rooster. The Florentines, more cunning, selected a hungry and nervous black rooster. The black rooster woke well before dawn, crowed early, and gave the Florentine rider a significant head start. He made it nearly all the way to Siena before they met—which is why Florence’s territory became so much larger than Siena’s.
So when you order a bottle of wine and see the black rooster (Gallo Nero) on the label, know that he’s a notable and noble part of Florentine history—the symbol of Chianti Classico and a reminder of Florence’s cleverness.
Places to eat & drink in Florence
Florence is home to bistecca alla fiorentina, tripe and lampredotto, ribollita, panzanella, Tuscan black croutons...and the list goes on!
Casual and markets
Il Mercato Centrale Firenze: The top floor hosts the magic. So much to eat here, from vegetarian options to Bambi Tripe e Lampredotto, serving the best lampredotto in Florence. Open 9 am–11 pm. I love it for lunch.
Pizzium Firenze: Casual pizza and drinks in a modern setting. Open 12:30 pm–11:30 pm (closed 2:30 pm–5:30 pm daily).
Il Santino: Not in the mood for dinner but want a light snack? Stroll across the Ponte Vecchio to this wine bar for a beautiful selection of Tuscan meats, cheeses, and wine. No reservations needed. Open 12:30 pm–11 pm.
Le Murate Caffè Letterario: Want to sip an Aperol Spritz in an old jail? This spot has a great courtyard and serves simple pizza and pasta. Check Google for exact times, but they’re usually open 10 am–2 am.
Traditional Tuscan
Osteria dei Leoni: Where lions were once raised stands this sweet spot, considered the best osteria embodying true Tuscan cuisine. Make reservations. Best for dinner with a bottle of Super Tuscan.
Le Cappelle Medicee – Craving truffle ravioli? This is your place. Everything on the menu is sourced from Tuscany, and it’s a delight for dinner. Reservations required. Open 11 am–11:30 pm.
Il Baroccio Antica Osteria: Decadence served with their Gnocchi Quattro Formaggi (four cheeses). They also serve excellent pici al cinghiale (wild boar pasta), ribollita, and great grilled vegetables for vegetarians in your group.
Gusto Leo Ristorante: A fan of lasagna? This is your spot. They also serve fantastic tiramisu. Rustic trattoria vibes—and they have gelato!
Cibrèo Trattoria: Zucchini blossoms, vegetable lasagna for vegetarians, and their famous cibrèo (a traditional chicken dish—I won’t ruin the surprise!). Also try the chicken and ricotta meatballs. Traditional Tuscan at its best. Make a reservation. Dinner is served 7:30 pm–10:30 pm.
Elevated and special occasion
Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura: Can’t get to Modena but love foodie experiences? Head here. It’s costly, but you’re paying for the privilege of sitting in a beautiful room eating Michelin-starred, inspired cuisine. If this punches above your weight, head to the rooftop bar instead—spectacular views and vibes at a fraction of the price. Make reservations before you even fly, ideally when you book your trip. I can always handle this for you—just let me know.
La Lance - Reggia degli Etruschi (Fiesole): Last but not least, it will cost you an Uber, but boy is it worth it. Head up to Fiesole for this restaurant’s new take on Tuscan cuisine. The view? Chef’s kiss. Try to book a patio table at sunset, have a cocktail, and savor it all. They don’t rush you. The food is innovative and exciting, and the staff is wonderful. We eat here more than we should, but it truly is worth it. Reservations are a must. Don’t worry about getting stuck—they’ll call you a cab. Pro tip: Uber up there!
Gelato
Gelateria Baroncino: Want the best gelato in Florence? You’re going to have to work for it. Take the T2 tram (toward Peretola Airport) from Santa Maria Novella to Novoli—to the Torre degli Agli. Stop. It’s worth every minute of the journey. Trust me, this will be the best hour and a half you will ever spend finding a sweet treat!
Need to know
What to pack
Comfortable shoes are non-negotiable: Florence is compact but walk-heavy, with stone streets and museum floors that will test your feet.
Wool socks: Ideal for cooler months and long days of exploring.
Canvas tote bag: Perfect for leather goods, books, and spontaneous market finds.
Light jacket and scarf: Florence weather can shift quickly. Layers are key.
Compact umbrella: Especially useful in spring and fall when rain can appear suddenly.
Smart planning
Pro Tip: Use Google Maps’ saved lists: Mark museums, cafés, viewpoints, and shops under “Travel Plans.” Those green flags make wandering far more intuitive.
Bring a portable battery pack: Between photos, maps, and museum apps, your phone will work overtime.
Book dinner reservations in advance: Ask your hotel concierge to help, especially for popular trattorias or Arno river views. One day ahead is usually enough.
Tickets and tours
Always book skip-the-line tickets for the Uffizi Gallery, Accademia (David), and the Duomo complexes. Florence queues are no joke.
Book tours through trusted sources: A great guide transforms art fatigue into fascination. If you need recommendations, ask for vetted operators (having experienced many firsthand, I can point you to the best).
Getting around
Florence is largely walkable, which is part of its magic. For longer distances or tired feet, buses are efficient. You can tap your phone’s wallet when boarding—no paper tickets required. When in doubt, open Google Maps, choose public transportation, and let the city guide you home.
Embrace the Meander
Avoid restaurants with laminated menus and aggressive hosts. Florence shines when you wander—quiet piazzas, artisan workshops, and unforgettable meals reveal themselves naturally. Trust the detour.
Do your homework: If you have time before departure (or on the flight), read Brunelleschi’s Dome by Ross King or The Medici by Paul Strathern. Florence isn’t just beautiful—it’s layered with stories of power, genius, and rivalry. Context turns frescoes into revelations.
Learn a few Italian phrases: Florentines are polite and genuinely appreciate effort, even imperfect attempts:
Grazie – Thank you
Buongiorno – Good morning / Hello (daytime)
Buonasera – Good evening
Arrivederci – Goodbye
Salve / Ciao – Hello (informal)
Quanto costa? – How much does it cost?
Dov’è il bagno? – Where is the bathroom?
Piacere – Nice to meet you
Don’t worry about perfect pronunciation. A smile and an attempt go a long way—Florentines are warm, encouraging, and happy to help. Lean into the charm. It’s part of the experience.
Travel Advisor
Christina Helm
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