A Curated Guide to Naples: Where I Go, Eat & Return To

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Allyson Rowland
Curated By

Allyson Rowland

  • Naples

  • Food & Wine

  • City Travel

  • Arts & Culture

  • Couples Travel

  • Coastal

Advisor - A Curated Guide to Naples: Where I Go, Eat & Return To
Curator’s statement

I lived in Naples for three years, and I still get excited when a client includes it in their itinerary—even if just for a short stop. Many travelers pass through for a night between the Amalfi Coast and an early flight, but Naples doesn’t need long to leave an impression. These are the places I found myself returning to most while living there—favorite walks, cultural stops, shops, and the food experiences that made daily life in the city so memorable.

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Things to do in Naples

Maradona mural in the Spanish Quarter

Walk on the Lungomare

If you want to understand why locals love this city so much, start with a walk along the Lungomare. Begin at Castel dell’Ovo and stroll the flat seaside promenade (fair warning: there’s very little shade). About 35 minutes later, you’ll arrive at two excellent rewards: pizza at 50 Kalò in Piazza Sannazaro and gelato from Chalet Ciro 1952 Mergellina.

Teatro San Carlo

If there’s a performance during your stay, grab a ticket. Teatro di San Carlo is the oldest continuously operating opera house in the world and somehow even more beautiful inside than you expect. If a show doesn’t fit your schedule, tours are available—just inquire at the ticket booth.

Complesso Monumentale di Santa Chiara

The historic center of Naples is vibrant, loud, and occasionally chaotic, which is why this spot feels almost magical. At the Complesso Monumentale di Santa Chiara, you’ll find a cloister lined with colorful majolica tiles and citrus trees—one of the few places in the city where everything suddenly feels calm. Entry is only a few euros and absolutely worth the pause.

Fragrance at Carthusia

They say scent is the sense most closely tied to memory, which makes this an ideal souvenir stop. Carthusia fragrances originate from the island of Capri and are still crafted using distillation methods first developed by Carthusian monks centuries ago. If you want to bring a little bit of Italy home, the room diffusers in Via Camarelle and Fiori di Capri are my personal favorites.

Take home a corno

While wandering through the historic center, you’ll notice small horn-shaped charms everywhere. The corno (or cornicello) is a traditional Neapolitan amulet believed to protect against the malocchio (evil eye) and bring good luck, prosperity, and fertility. Technically it’s supposed to be gifted to you—but I’ve definitely bought one for myself before.

National Archaeological Museum

If visiting Pompeii isn’t possible on your itinerary, this is the next best thing. The National Archaeological Museum of Naples houses an incredible collection of mosaics, frescoes, and artifacts recovered from Pompeii and Herculaneum. If you happen to visit near closing time, step across the street to Scotto Jonno for a cocktail.

Diego Maradona mural

Even if you don’t follow soccer, you’ll quickly realize that Diego Maradona is something close to a local saint in Naples. The most famous tribute is a towering mural tucked inside the Spanish Quarter at the corner of Via Emanuele de Deo and Vico Concordia. It’s the perfect excuse to explore the neighborhood—and a reminder of just how deeply this city loves its legends.

Places to eat & drink in Naples

The Margherita pizza from Concettina ai Tre Santi

50 Kaló

A quick cab ride away from the tourist center, you’ll find this pizzeria that is just far enough away that it is still mostly filled with Italians. The perfect Margherita pizza. In locals we trust! If you’re really willing to travel off the beaten path though, check out La Notizia 53.

Concettina ai Tre Santi

Tucked into the Sanità neighborhood, this is a slightly more elevated take on traditional Neapolitan pizza without losing its roots. It’s worth the extra effort to get here (it’s up by the Archaeological Museum), especially if you want to see a neighborhood that feels a bit more local.

Starita a Materdei

A Naples institution and one of the city’s most famous pizzerias for good reason. This is the place to order pizza fritta if you’ve never tried it before—crispy on the outside, soft, and rich inside—and their classic marinara pizza is also excellent.

Pasticceria Poppella

While you must try a sfogliatelle (see below) my personal favorite Neapolitan pastry called the “fiocco di neve” was invented at this particular pasticceria. It’s a small, soft brioche bun filled with a light cream made of ricotta and fresh milk and finished with powdered sugar. Just trust me.

La Sfogliatella Mary

This tiny kiosk located at the entrance of the Galleria Umberto is famous for serving some of Naples’ best sfogliatella. I prefer the sfogliatella riccia, which is the flaky one!

Drinks at the Grand Hotel Parker’s or Grand Hotel Vesuvio

If you’re looking for a nice place for cocktails with a good view, head to the rooftop of either of these hotels (which are also great to stay at!). The former has views of the city and the latter has views of the water/castle.

CU.QU. / cucinadiquartiere

This tiny spot is in a picturesque alleyway and serves fantastic natural wine and delicious seasonal meals. I wouldn’t bring a big group here, but it is a perfect spot for a couple.

Mimì alla Ferrovia

This is a great place to sit down for a more traditional meal. Order the pasta alla Genovese, a slow-cooked onion and beef sauce that’s deeply flavorful and very local.

Need to know

  • Greet others with “salve” (sal-vay) rather than “ciao,” which is more informal and typically used with people you already know. It’s a small detail, but it’s appreciated and sets the tone right away.

  • If you’re traveling in August, be aware of Ferragosto. Around mid-August, many shops and family-run businesses close for an extended break—you’ll often see signs that say “chiuso per ferie” (closed for vacation).

  • Coffee culture is quick and to the point. Most locals drink espresso standing at the bar rather than sitting down, and ordering a cappuccino is typically a morning-only thing.

  • Dinner is later than you might expect. Many restaurants don’t really fill up until around 8:30 p.m. or later, so plan accordingly—especially if you’re trying to get into a popular spot.

  • Cash is still very useful here. While cards are accepted in many places, small purchases and taxis are often easier in euros, and you’ll likely need €1 or €2 coins for public restrooms.

  • As with most major cities, be mindful of your belongings. Keep bags zipped and wear your purse crossbody, especially in crowded areas or on public transportation.

Allyson Rowland

Travel Advisor

Allyson Rowland

Advisor - Allyson Rowland

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