Chasing the Northern Lights: A Week in Lofoten, Norway

The simplest way to get to Lofoten is by plane. From Oslo, there are no direct flights, but I recommend flying from Oslo to Bodo to Leknes. The Bodo to Leknes flight is a puddle jumper, but the views are spectacular.

Once you land in Leknes, rent a car and drive about 35 minutes to Nusfjord Village, a restored historic fishing village where traditional red rorbuer cabins have been transformed into understated, design-forward accommodations. Staying here feels like stepping into living Norwegian coastal history, with dramatic mountain-and-sea scenery, extraordinary seafood, and a level of quiet that feels almost sacred.

Wake slowly in Nusfjord and start the day with an exceptional breakfast at Karoline, surrounded by still water, fishing cabins, and dramatic peaks.

Set off south along the E10, one of Norway’s most scenic drives. Sopping in Reine and continue to the village of Å to hike to the Pekker Hendricson viewpoint, explore town, and visit the Norsk Fiskevaersmuseum. Refuel with fresh herring sandwiches at Sild & Salmon or classic fish and chips from Maritime Munchies before enjoying a relaxed, scenery-filled drive back north.

End the day soaking in the outdoor hot plunge, warming up in the sauna, and finishing with a refined, deeply satisfying dinner back at Karoline.

Rise early and drive to Reine to hike Reinebringen, a breathtaking climb with stone steps built by Nepalese Sherpas, rewarding you with one of the most iconic views in all of Norway. Refuel with rich, comforting seafood stew at Anita’s Sjømat before heading north to hike Ryten, a less steep but deeply mystical landscape that feels almost otherworldly.

On the return, stop at Lofoten Beach Camp for beers overlooking the ocean, soaking in the wild coastal beauty. End the day back at Nusfjord with a sauna and dinner at Karoline, then step outside to hunt for the Northern Lights dancing across the Arctic sky.

Start the morning with breakfast at Karoline before driving out to hike Festvågtind—a demanding rock scramble rewarded by truly spectacular views over the Henningsvær islands and surrounding peaks.

After the hike, cross the bridge into Henningsvær and check into Henningsvær Bryggehotel, settling into a loft suite with soaring ceilings, modern Nordic design, and dramatic water-and-mountain views. Stretch out tired legs with a relaxed walk through the charming fishing village before heading to Trevarefabrikken for happy hour beers outside, watching the sun set over the powersful sea.

Finish with dinner at Vind Brasserie at the hotel, then spend the night scanning the Arctic sky for Northern Lights.

Your legs may be shot, making it the perfect morning to reserve a private sauna at Trevarefabrikken, gazing out at the powerful open sea and, if you’re brave, climbing down the rocks for a quick dip in the frigid Arctic water.

Spend the afternoon wandering Henningsvær’s small art galleries, browsing local shops, and stopping for coffee and cake at Lysstøperiet Café, then walk to the fiskehjell to see rows of stockfish drying in the open air—a centuries-old Lofoten tradition that once powered Norway’s economy and still defines the region’s identity today. Explore one of the preserved WWII bunkers, a quiet but powerful reminder of Lofoten’s strategic role during the war.

End the day with exceptional fresh seafood at Fiskekrogen, followed by a Guinness by the fire at Klatrekaféen, soaking in the hygge atmosphere.

On a rainy day, drive to Svolvær and visit the Lofoten War Memorial Museum, which tells the powerful story of Nazi occupation here—largely driven by Lofoten’s strategic Arctic location and proximity to Russia and vital shipping routes. Spend time browsing Svolvær’s excellent outdoor gear shops before settling into the cozy warmth of Telegrafen Pub for a drink and a slow, comfortable afternoon.

Head back to Henningsvær for a sunset harbor walk as the fishing boats and mountains fade into soft evening light. Finish with dinner at Vind Brasserie and a few celebratory Guinness at Klatrekaféen, ending the day feeling peaceful, grounded, and invigorated by the raw beauty of Lofoten.